On a Schooner
I had the opportunity this fall to be a paid passenger/crew on a schooner going up the Chesapeake Bay. The schooner, Woodwind, had participated in the Great Schooner Race from Annapolis, MD to Norfolk, VA. The trip I was taking took the opposite route.
The plan was to go from Norfolk to Hampton the first day, to Deltaville the next, up to Solomon’s Island, anchor near Annapolis, then pull into Annapolis on Friday. But best laid plans often go awry. In this case it was it was one of several nasty wind event we’d had on the Chesapeake Bay over the last two months. This one was a nor’easter with sustained winds in the 20’s and gusts in the 30’s. What made it worse was the winds for most of the trip were coming directly from the north. And to get to Annapolis from Norfolk, you head north.
Day 1
My daughter and I arrived at the boat about an hour early. Construction has been going on at the bridge tunnel that links Norfolk with our side of the water and I didn’t want to chance a delay causing me to be late. We dropped off my gear and headed to lunch.
After lunch, I hugged my daughter goodbye and boarded for the beginning of our adventure. I dropped my gear in my cabin, then joined the others in the cockpit.
The captain gave us a rundown of the boat, told us about the man overboard procedures, and gave us the tentative plan. We then headed to Mill Creek, near Ft Monroe, in Hampton, crossing over the tunnel I had to take to get to the boat. I quipped that I could have just met them in Hampton. But then, I guess, I would have missed the briefing.
We had shrimp or beef tacos, prepared by one of the mates. They were delicious! We learned a card game I’d never played before – Mr President- which moved quite quickly. Then I headed to bed for the evening and left the others to more cards.
Day 2
The captain pulled us out of the creek and into Hampton Roads. The winds were strong, coming almost directly out of the north. The sails were up, with 2 reefs in the main. The captain let the guests take turns at the wheel. Because of the winds and the current, we were just going east and west, making little progress north. After a time, the captain took the wheel, turned on the engine, and we made our way north.
I’m sure this was fun for the captain and regular crew, since it was not what I would assume is the usual mundane voyage. But we were getting heavy waves and everyone in the cockpit was getting wet. I headed down below to stay dry and read my book.
Our goal was Fishing Bay, near Deltaville, where we could get a pump out, refill water tanks, and refuel. We made it about 4:30 pm, before they closed at 5. We asked to stay at the fuel dock overnight, but our request was denied. So we anchored out in Fishing Bay. Once we settled in, the captain received a call from one of the nearby vessels, who knew the owner of our boat and said to pass on their greetings.
I had never understood the appeal of the Deltaville area. There was little to do in the town and the landscape don’t seem that appealing. But Fishing Bay was beautiful. It was quite a splendid spot for a stopover.
That night’s dinner was curry, which was also delicious.
The rest of the folks wanted to play cards again. I bowed out since I was tired and had done very poorly on the game the previous evening. I could hear the buzz from the conversations in the aft cabins from my bunk, but was still able to settle in for the evening.
Day 3
After the rough weather on day 2, which was not expected to be much better today, the captain decided to leave a bit later in the day, when the winds would subside a bit. She also shortened our passage for the day, aiming for Reedville instead of Solomon’s Island.
The waves had lessened and the winds did come down a bit, making for a somewhat more comfortable passage. But the winds were still out of the north, so sailing was difficult.
We appreciated the shorter day. And the anchorage the captain chose was again ideal. And, like the one the day before, it was sheltered from the winds.
Dinner that night was a choice of eggplant or chicken Parmesan on a bed of ziti. Yum!
Day 4
We had a deadline of getting back to Annapolis by Friday, so today had to be a longer voyage, to make up for the day before. So the captain and mates started us out at 4 am. The wind and waves were much like the day before – still choppy, but nothing like earlier in the week. But we spent most of the day motoring in order to make up miles.
I did notice something fun that I hadn’t appreciated before. You can see rainbows in the spray!
WE made good distance, heading to an anchorage in Harness Creek, just south of Annapolis. Another beautiful anchorage, sheltered from the wind.
Day 5
Our last day! The winds finally died down to something reasonable. This was more like what we’d hoped for on this trip. And we were able to sail most of the way to Annapolis.
This was the usual stomping grounds for Woodwind, the region where there took Annapolis tourists for a short day trip. So we also got some of the spiel about the structures in the area. One such structure was the famous Thomas Point Shoal light which, according to Wikipedia, “is the only screw-pile lighthouse in the bay which stands at its original site.” It was quite impressive!
We ended the voyage with a glass of champagne, or mimosas for those of us who chose to add a bit of orange juice.
Would I do this again? I think I’d take my chances a second time. Hopefully the next time won’t be as rough. But it was well worth it to spend this much time on the water with an experienced crew.